Tuesday, 28 January 2014

Saving Fuel Is Easy With These Four Steps to Better Fuel Efficiency

Here are some ways to make sure you are not driving around unnecessarily guzzling gas:
Listen to the Big Wigs
When vehicle manufacturers put together those nifty little owner’s manuals and maintenance guidelines, they know what they are talking about. Surprisingly, a LOT of people tend to ignore the manufacturer’s guidelines on vehicle care. But if you make the effort to maintain your engine, keep up the oil changes plus make sure your brakes and other components that endure normal wear and tear are kept up – then the results will speak for themselves. According to the US Department of Energy, you stand to save as much as 4% per gallon when operating a well-maintained vehicle. Taking care of bigger issues, will yield bigger savings.
Pay Attention to Pressure
Tire pressure, that is. Unless your tires are regularly maintained at their ideal and manufacturer suggested pressure, you stand the risk of wasting a sizable amount of fuel energy. The work your engine will have to do just to get that vehicle around on underinflated tires is enough to add as much as almost 3.5% of unnecessary gasoline consumption. What’s more, the percentage of fuel efficiency achieved goes up along with each pound of pressure closer to the recommended level. To find out the optimum tire pressure for the tires on your vehicle, refer to your owner’s manual or check the label inside the front left door.
Feed Your Engine The Right Oil
Since there are several options and grades available when it comes to motor oil, it only makes sense to stick with the one that is best for your vehicle’s engine type. With the exception of synthetic oil vs. natural, the thickness and viscosity are factors that change according to your engine’s specific parameters and needs. The climate where you operate your vehicle also has something to do with which motor oil is best. But if you use the wrong grade or one that is not the best choice for your car or truck, then you are wasting an opportunity to save as much as 1-2% on average of your fuel consumption.
Filters and Belts Need Attention Too
We tend to think of filters and belts as components that have a lot to do with a vehicle’s performance, which is largely true. But did you know that you can also achieve better fuel efficiency by keeping these things up? Clean, unclogged and appropriate filters affect the drivability in all cars and for older, non-fuel injection cars, also offer extra mileage gained per gallon. Similarly, when a vehicle’s belts are running properly and smoothly, the engine has to work less in the same amount of time, giving you great gas mileage!

Wednesday, 22 January 2014

Car care tips for road trips

People are so used to driving certain speeds on certain roads that sometimes they forget the need to slow down when inclement weather presents itself.
Before you go - Wet-weather driving demands gentle use of all the main controls – steering, clutch, brake and accelerator – and a larger allowance for errors and emergencies. When you begin a journey in rain, your shoes will be wet and liable to slip off the pedals. Scuff the soles on the rubber matting or carpeting of the car before you start the engine. All motorists should regularly check that their headlights, tail lights, brake lights and turn signals are working properly.
How are your tires? - Check your tires on a regular basis. Bald tires significantly reduce your traction on wet roadways, and offer little resistance to hydroplaning. When your tires run over water, the water is displaced and it needs somewhere to go quickly. The best place is between the treads of your tires. If your tires are bald, the water has no place to go and you end up riding on a layer of water, like a boat. (See Hydroplaning, below.)
Turn on your wipers - Replace your wipers regularly, at least once a year. Wiper blades in bad condition don’t clear water from the windshield very well and distort your view. Older vehicles may need to have the whole wiper arm replaced. The arms bend over time and sometimes can’t keep enough downward pressure to clear the windscreen, even with new blades installed. Wipers will often clear light rain from the windscreen with a few sweeps, then run on an almost-dry screen and leave smears of drying dirt. Don’t be afraid to use the windscreen washers liberally: the fluid is cheap (99 cents a gallon) and the safety benefit is high. Carry extra during the winter.
Don’t follow large trucks or busses closely. Splash and spray from these vehicles can obscure your vision, creating a potentially disastrous driving situation. Keep your distance, and your windshield wipers on, when other traffic is in front of you.
Turn on your lights - Whenever visibility is poor or it rains, headlights are a good way to let other drivers know where you are. It’s both helpful to other travelers and makes you more safe. Remember, you are not the only one affected by poor visibility. You may be able to see cars without their headlights on but others may not have vision or windshield wipers as good as yours. Many states require headlights to be turned on when it is raining or when visibility is reduced to less than 500 feet.
Heavy rain - Heavy rain can overload the wiper blades, allowing an almost continuous sheet of water to flow over the screen. When visibility is so limited that the edges of the road or other vehicles cannot be seen at a safe distance, it is time to pull over and wait for the rain to ease up. It is best to stop at rest areas or other protected areas. If the roadside is your only option, pull off as far as possible, preferably past the end of a guard rail, and wait until the storm passes, seldom more than a few minutes. Keep your headlights on and turn on emergency flashers to alert other drivers.
Foggy windows - Rain or high humidity can quickly cause windows to mist up inside the car. In a car equipped with air conditioning, turn up the heat and direct the airflow to your defrosters with the AC switch engaged. (Many cars automatically engage the AC when switched to the defrost mode.) In a car without AC the procedure is the same, but you may need to open your side windows to get the air moving. Most modern cars have a built-in rear window defroster that easily clears a misted rear windscreen by heating up electrodes embedded in the glass. If you don’t have one, put your defroster on high and its hot air will eventually follow the inside of the roof down to the rear window. If the car has swiveling dashboard vents, adjust them so that the air flow strikes the upper edge of the side windows. The airflow will clear the side windows first, finally traveling to the rear of the car. If all else fails, a rag or article of clothing will work as well; you’ll just need to clear the window more often. Drivers should regularly clean their windshield and windows, both on the inside and outside, to help them see in good and bad weather. Smokers need to take extra care to make sure their interior windows are clear of a buildup of smoke residue.
Handling a skid - Losing control of your car on wet pavement is a frightening experience. You can prevent skids by driving slowly and carefully, especially on curves. Brake before entering the curves. Steer and brake with a light touch. If you find yourself in a skid, remain calm, ease your foot off the gas, and carefully steer in the direction you want the front of the car to go. This procedure, known as “steering into the skid,” will bring the back end of your car in line with the front. For cars without anti-lock brakes, avoid using your brakes. If your car has ABS, brake firmly as you “steer into the skid.”
Expressway driving - Leave lots of space between you and the car in front because it takes longer to stop. You’re supposed to leave a few seconds between cars in dry weather. Make sure you add space in wet weather because if you have to hit the brakes hard, your tires will lock up, you will hydroplane and you will most likely hit the car in front of you. If available, drive in the fast lane, where there are fewer cars and less oil deposited on the road. Also, because of the built-in slope of the road, water drains towards the slower lanes. Avoid lane changes, as water tends to build up between the tire ruts in the lanes.
Oily deposits - Watch for intersections because of the oil spots in the road. Rain is most dangerous when it falls after a long, dry spell on to roads that have become polished and smooth: the rain blends with oil and rubber-dust deposits on the road surface to form a highly dangerous skid mixture. That mixture builds up at intersections, where cars stop and start frequently. Be extra careful immediately after it starts raining because it takes a while for the worst of the dirt and oil to get washed off the road.
Driving Through Water - Where water has flooded onto the road, drive very slowly and cautiously. Never drive through moving water if you can’t see the ground through it: you and your car could be swept off the road, possibly finishing you both. Stop the car before entering the flooded area and check the water level ahead. Generally, if the water is deeper than the bottom of your doors or the bottom third of your wheels, it is inadvisable to attempt driving through it. Seek a detour rather than braving the flood and risking damage to your electronic control systems. Attempting to go through deep water can ruin any of these systems, creating a repair bill in the thousands of dollars.
At night it’s much harder to see water hazards. You’ll need good road observational skills to notice the difference between a wet road surface and flood water. Watch the contours not only of the road but also of fences, trees, hedges and buildings at the side of the road ahead. If they appear to be unnaturally low, slow down at once as the road is probably flooded. If you don’t slow down and hit flood water at speed, the effect is almost like hitting a wall: you will first lose control, then come to a violent stop, possibly injuring your passengers as well. Watch out for places where floodwater collects, particularly low-lying roads adjacent to streams, and dips under rail or highway bridges.
If you determine it’s safe to go on, proceed slowly and avoid making large waves in the water. If you have a manual transmission, engage first gear and keep the engine running fast by releasing the clutch just enough to partially engage gear and giving more acceleration than usual. This keeps the exhaust gases moving, helping to prevent water from entering your tailpipe. Vehicles with automatic transmissions should place the car in first gear and feather your brake, slowing the vehicle while at the same time keeping your revs up. Doing this for longer than a few seconds can seriously damage your vehicle and is not recommended. If you’re submerged too deeply, your engine will stall and water might enter your engine through your air intake, causing a condition known engine hydro-lock, forcing you to replace it.
What to do if you stall in deep water - If possible, have someone pull your vehicle out using a tow rope or cable winch. It may be possible to drive a manual transmission car out using the starter motor. You can make the job easier by removing your spark-plugs, thereby lowering your compression and making your starter turn more easily. Take great care not to let water enter the cylinders, as it will hydro-lock your engine, ruining it. This is a last resort for rescuing a flooded vehicle and is not recommended.
Check your brakes - If you successfully pass through a deep water hazard, test your brakes. They may be saturated, and only driving very slowly and braking lightly at the same time will generate enough heat to dry them out. Be sure they are pulling evenly on all wheels before building up speed again.

Saturday, 4 January 2014

Auto Engine Repair For Smooth Driving

It’s time for an engine repair if your car is having trouble making it up a short incline or losing power when accelerating to pass a long vehicle. Your Service Engine or Check Engine light may, or may not, come on warning you that a potential engine rebuild is needed. Instead of just a simple tune up service, your vehicle may require a more extensive engine repair.
Don’t procrastinate too long after you notice problems to call your auto shop and schedule a diagnostic test to determine the cause of the problem. It’s just like going to a medical doctor for an illness and following their prescribed course of treatment, you should follow your auto mechanic’s recommendations for engine repair. For safe and smooth driving ahead, keep your engine running at peak performance.
The inspection and diagnosis will also serve to let you know if your vehicle has any other components or systems that need maintenance and repair. Some of the engine components that could fail and cause problems are the . . .
  • Crankcase – vent filter or ventilation (PVC) valve
  • Distributor cap and rotor
  • Emissions control system
  • Engine sensors and diagnostics
  • Fuel pump
  • Ignition coil pack, module or wires
  • Oil – top off or have an oil and filter change
  • Vapor canister filter
To ensure that your vehicle will get you to your destination safely and smoothly, make sure you understand the type of engine repair that is recommended, and then have it taken care of as soon as possible. Don’t get stranded on the side of the road with a car that won’t run!
Headed for a potential engine rebuild? Contact San Jose Auto Repair today by calling (408) 258-6625 or go on-line at http://sanjoseautorepair.com/ for more information about our engine service.